KARI-ANNE PEDERSEN'S BOOK – Bunad og Folkedrakt: beltestakk før og nå
Seventh in series of articles on Norwegian "folkedrakt" (folk dress) and "bunader" (folk costumes) by Jody Grage Haug, Døtre Av Norge, August 1998.
On May 10, 1998, a press conference was held at the Norwegian Folk Museum in Oslo to announce the release of the book, Bunad og Folkedrakt: beltestakk før og nå by Kari-Anne Pedersen, curator for costumes and textiles at the Norwegian Folk Museum. It was a pleasure to be a part of this event, not only because the author is a personal friend and colleague, but because the book is wonderful.
The book’s large, coffee-table format, the countless historic and contemporary pictures and drawings, and the massive amount of information included make it a grand addition to the series on Living Norwegian Traditions by the Technological Publishing Company.
Kari-Anne’s book explores the question of why a newly made beltestakk seldom looks like the historical clothing it is supposed to resemble. The nature and processes of clothing research, the history of clothing in East Telemark, and the details of the many parts of a beltestakk are carefully examined.
WHAT IS A BUNAD & A FOLKEDRAKT?
A bunad is a formal or festive dress which can have roots in local traditions or can be totally new with no connection to older clothing. Folk dress — folkedrakt — was used by rural people before the Industrial Revolution. The cut of the everyday and festival dress was often the same, with details, wealth of decoration, or degree of wear making the difference. Folk dress was used daily and was the only clothing people had, while the bunad is used for special occasions as an alternative to contemporary clothing.
THE BELTESTAKK
Telemark bunad without jacket
When the beltestakk [roughly translated as "belt-costume"
, or "sash-costume"] was the usual daily wear, cut and fit were most important. A great deal of time and energy was invested in creating the proper silhouette and drape and in quality handwork details. Particularly important for the beltestakk were the smallness of the rolled edges, the bowed skirt hem, and the visible stitches as a display of sewing machine ownership.
Ideas of beauty and good taste change over time, as do the colors and patterning of fabrics. When people grew up with folk dress, they knew how it should look, while today we use folkedrakt or bunader only occasionally so we are less confident and feel a need to be careful in our choices within the options available. We are also accustomed to coordinated colors and patterns, lighter-weight clothing, and less complex layering.
A new beltestakk emphasizes color and embellishment. As a bunad it is appropriate for May 17th, proper and pretty by today's standards of taste. It doesn't look strange or odd and is culturally safe so the wearer doesn't feel overdressed.
A close-up of the Telemark bunad blouse showing the silver decorating the outfit
For a beltestakk the options seem nearly endless. The short bodice varies in size and shape, fabric and sometimes embroidery, and edgings and embellishing bands. The cartridge-pleated skirt varies in dark color and type of weave, length and width, and hem shaping, stiffening and coverings. The apron varies in dark color, fabric type and weave, length and width, ties, and hem and side embellishments. The shirt and underjacket vary in cut of sleeve and collar, fabric type/color/pattern, and embroidery styles and colors if the fabric is white. The card-woven belt varies in length and width, colors, and fastening style. The headwear varies in hairband colors and in fabric type, colors and patterns of the scarves. Stockings vary from knitting to embroidery on wool fabric. Shoes vary between wooden, leather with fringes, and high laced boots. The outer jacket varies in color, cut, embellishment and lining. Knit cuffs and gloves vary with embroidery and dense fringes. Traditional jewelry also varies within local norms.
In times past the boundaries of cut and fit for a beltestakk were traditionally determined and fabric and embellishment options were limited by availability. Clothing parts were accumulated and replaced over time.
CHOICES IN ACQUIRING A BELTESTAKK
To acquire a beltestakk today means choosing between the older and newer approaches and among a wide variety of materials — and doing all this over a comparatively short period of time. Mind boggling — but fascinating!
NOTES
For further information on Kari-Anne's beltestakk book, contact Jody Haug. The book is available only in Norwegian and costs approximately $60 US.
(Dec. 2009 subnote: The book is out of print today and prices have changed, this article was writing in 1998. Today it is occasionally available online by searching for Bunad og Folkedrakt. Amazon states it has limited availability. Used book sites are a good possibility for finding the book. Did find Norwegian source listing it at kr 429. Other bunad books available there too. Shipping not included.]
